Petroglyphs & Rock Art

On the wall of a cave, a hand reaches out of the darkness. It is not a real hand. It is the outline of one, sprayed in red pigment across the stone, the fingers spread wide. Around it gather more hands, dozens of them, a silent crowd pressed against the rock. In some places, images like these were made more than thirty thousand years ago. Stand before them and something extraordinary happens. The distance collapses. A person you will never know, separated from you by hundreds

Imagine carving a picture into solid rock using nothing but another rock. No metal chisel. No steel blade. Just a hard stone held in your hand, struck against the surface again and again, chipping away one tiny fragment at a time. To create a single figure this way might take hours of patient labour. To cover a cliff with images, the work of days, or of many people across many years. This is how petroglyphs were made. They are among the most enduring artworks humanity has eve

On a rock in the Sahara, someone painted a hippopotamus. Stop and consider how strange that is. The hippopotamus is a creature of rivers and lakes, of deep water and lush banks. It cannot survive long away from water at all. Yet here it is, painted onto a cliff in the driest desert on Earth, a place where it would perish within a single day. It is not alone. Elsewhere on the desert rock are crocodiles. Fish. Great herds of cattle. People swimming, arms outstretched, gliding t

Step away from every electric light, out into a true wilderness, and look up. The sky that ancient people knew comes flooding back. Thousands of stars, sharp and bright. The pale river of the Milky Way arching overhead. The moon moving through its phases, the slow wheel of the constellations across the turning seasons. For our ancestors, this was no distant abstraction. It was a vivid, constant presence, watched closely, understood deeply, woven into the rhythm of their lives

After days of travelling, the land begins to rise. The flat sand gives way to something stranger, a vast plateau of weathered stone that climbs out of the desert like the ruin of a drowned continent. Towers of rock stand in their thousands. Arches and pinnacles throw long shadows across the sand. It looks less like a place on Earth than a vision of another planet. This is Tassili n'Ajjer. Hidden among its stone lies one of the greatest treasures of the ancient world. Climb on

On a cliff in Argentina, hundreds of hands reach out of the rock. Red, black, ochre, they cluster across the stone in their multitudes, the outlines of human palms sprayed onto the surface thousands of years ago. The place is called the Cave of Hands, and to stand within it is overwhelming. A silent crowd, reaching out across nine thousand years. The same gesture appears on the far side of the world. In the caves of Indonesia. On the walls of Europe. Across Africa, Australia,

Some places change you simply by standing in them. A cathedral of painted stone deep beneath the ground. A desert cliff covered in the animals of a vanished world. A field of boulders carved by hands that worked the rock ten thousand years ago. Across the world, in caves and deserts and remote highlands, the galleries of the deep past are waiting. This is a guide to the greatest of them. The places where you can stand, today, before art made tens of thousands of years before

You are standing in the middle of the Sahara. Around you stretches the greatest desert on Earth, a furnace of sand and bare rock where rain may not fall for years on end. Nothing grows. Nothing moves. The silence is total. Then you look at the rock face in front of you, and the world turns upside down. Painted on the stone, in faded ochre and white, a herd of cattle moves across open grassland. Nearby, a hippopotamus wallows. A crocodile basks. Human figures swim through wate

Somewhere in the deep past, a human being looked at a blank rock and saw, in their mind, an animal that was not there. Then they made it appear. In that moment, or rather across thousands of such moments scattered through the long dawn of our species, something extraordinary happened. A creature began to do what no creature had ever done. To take an idea from inside the mind and set it down in the world. To let a mark of pigment stand for a living beast. To imagine, and then

A painting on a cave wall has survived for forty thousand years. Think of everything it has outlasted. The rise and fall of every empire. The end of the Ice Age. The invention of writing, the wheel, the city. Through all of it, the image endured on its rock, untouched, waiting. Then, in a single careless moment, a visitor reaches out and runs a hand across it. Or wets it to brighten the colours for a photograph. Or sets off a camera flash, again and again. What forty thousand

Press your palm against a cave wall where, thirty thousand years ago, someone pressed theirs. Look at the animal they painted, the symbol they carved, the handprint they left in pigment. Then ask the question that has no certain answer. Why did you do this? It is the most natural question in the world, and the hardest. We can see the art. We can date it, measure it, map it. We can stand exactly where the artist stood. The one thing we cannot do is ask them what it meant. The

A painting on a cave wall carries no signature. No date. No note from the artist saying when the work was done. It is simply there, on the rock, silent. So how can anyone possibly say it is forty thousand years old? Or fifty thousand? How do you put a number on an image left by a person who vanished into the deep past without a single written word? It sounds impossible. For a long time, it very nearly was. The dating of rock art is among the hardest challenges in all of archa

In a limestone cave on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, on a wall that has waited in the dark for an almost unimaginable length of time, three small figures gather around a wild pig. The scene is faint now, painted in worn red ochre. Yet it is unmistakably a story. Figures, an animal, a moment held still. Someone, long ago, wanted to record something. A hunt, perhaps. A memory. A belief. In 2024, scientists announced the age of this painting. It is at least fifty one thousa

Peru is a country of extremes, from the depths of the Amazon to the dizzying heights of the Andes. The first stop? The jungle. Deep in the Tambopata Reserve, the rainforest never slept. Every step brought new sounds the calls of howler monkeys, the hum of cicadas, the distant roar of a jaguar (okay that’s ai over exaggerating). We watched giant river otters slice through the water, macaws burst into the sky in flashes of red and blue and a tarantula the size of my hand very k